Monday, 10 March 2014

Magazine Monday: DIY Interwebs Edition!

The smog outside my window lingers yet, likewise my post-flu brain fog, but I miss blahblahing to all of you! So, despite the fact that I've actually not bought any beauty mags for months, I thought I'd cobble together my own version of magazine monday with some inspiration from around the interwebs.

1. Tutorials
Get It Beauty, a Korean cable tv show dedicated to, erm, beauty. I'd linked to their dohwa makeup episode previously, but since then have been working through all the English-subtitled videos I could find (mostly here and also here) and enjoying myself immensely. Even though most of the guest artists can't hold a candle to Jung Saem Mool's* school of ultra-refinement, I just like seeing them work, and the scrappier (even all-out messy) approaches can feel very refreshing -- it's just makeup, after all, and it washes off. Despite their individual differences, I think all the makeup artists featured share a few things that make my beauty geek heart go pitter-patter: intense attention to detail and the dorky too-specific terminology to go with it (the Engrish just adds spice); sensitivity to trends and new textures and ways of doing things; and readiness to make the most of products by multitasking and mixing and of unconventional tools like spoons and toothpicks. The models are generally members of the audience, which means a wider range of features and skintypes/tones than one usually sees in makeup tutorials.
Note: as is common in E. Asia, the tone is often highly prescriptive with much emphasis on the one ideal standard of beauty for all kinds of inconsequential things (the goal: must give everyone a complex about the shape of the triangle formed by their earlobe-to-nostril-to-third-brow-hair), but as I'm not subject to them I can just sit back and marvel all dilettante-like at the different cultural connotations of, say, a down-turned eye-shape, and gigglesnort at the '3D face scanner' they like to trot out. Still, prepare to twitch occasionally as the panel break down all the 'flaws' in a perfectly attractive face, and make sure anything you have to hand to throw at your screen won't break it :P

*JSM has also worked on the show, and I got a kick out of hearing her own "pok pok pok" sound effect for those signature tapping motions :D

Disclaimers done, have some pick'n'mix of my favourites:

For those still suffering withdrawal symptoms after the ending of Miss Korea, here's GIB's take on nineties vs 2013's nineties revival makeup [link]:

Tips and tricks for face-shaping, using mostly matte / skin-like textures, well blended [link]:
(The inbuilt smile thing looks a bit dodgy at the end of that video, but I can't nitpick the final results shown in part 4.)

 Some wackier blush shapes to play with [link]:

A trio of videos on K-pop girl group makeup, with a fascinating glimpse into the current connotations of single vs double lids in K makeup, influential on but at a slight angle to the Japanese and Chinese discourses with which I'm more familiar -- interestingly, there's a meme in J and C circles I keep coming across that Korean makeup artists work 'best' with monolids, and at least in these videos, it seems to be due to the fact that monolids aren't seen as a problem to be corrected right off the bat:
Part 1 [link]

Part 2 [link]

Part 3 (annoyingly/mysteriously only on vimeo) [link]

Blind Test is GIB's version of VoCE's 10-item deathmatch. With less SCIENCE (and fewer oranges and random sweeties stuck to lips :/) Here's an example, on primers. You can flip through the Blind Test archive here.

The latest season has just begun, with the first episode on March 5th introducing new emcee Yoo In-Na (uh, luhv huh!), with guest stars like the adorable IU, and my gals from SPICA Seriously, does this show know how to EAT MY WHOLE ENTIRE BRAIN or what? :D The episode pits two spring 2014 lip trends against each other: 'lovely' pink vs 'stylish' orange -- with the inevitable segue into My Love from Another Star. *BREAKING NEWS EDIT* and subs are up! Parts one, two, three, and four.

 2. Themed Collages
(shamelessly recycled from my pinboards :P)

I've always loved blue accents, and am pleased to see them all over the catwalks for yet another season. Whether in partial or ombre wings:
backstage at David Koma SS '14 (L)  and  Kenzo AW '14 (R)
...or in modern soft-graphic frames at inner or outer corners:
Alice Temperley AW '14 (L) and Jean-Paul Gaultier Haute Couture SS '14 (R)
Sharper accents, peeping from upper or lower inner corners, especially effective against warm metallics:
Versace Haute Couture SS '14 (L) and Zoe Jordan SS '14 (R)
...and two twists on the vibrant contrasting waterline -- a clean line against a clean eye, and a smudged lower lashline against a grungy grey haze [which I've helpfully placed in reverse order :P]
Giles AW '14 (L) and Creatures of the Wind AW '14 (R)

A newer thing I've been playing with on my newly less-freckled face, naive blush placements. Mostly centralised, kept fairly rounded on the apples of the cheeks rather than blended up and out, especially in warm tones from peach to cinnabar:
Alexis Mabile SS '14 show (top left),  Factice Magazine #15 (top right),
Dolce & Gabanna AW '14 show (bottom left),  Yen Magazine Oct '12 (bottom right)
Though also very pretty diffused more widely in rose-tones:
Allure Korea Aug 2013 (top),  Glow Magazine Feb/Mar 2008 (bottom)
The first look is a way dialled-up version of what I was trying to do with my no-makeup makeup, no?

3. Upcoming Releases
I'm currently on a soft no-buy while working my way through the last season's worth of purchases, separating the keeps from the goats. Er. You know. But my fabulous/evil blogroll keeps brandishing tempting new things -- brandishing, I say! -- so it is clearly my duty to spread the infection further. With my blush and eyeliner wardrobes pretty much complete, I'm mostly eyeing up new-gen, everything-but-the-kitchen sink lip formulas, hybrid challengers to the YSL Glossy Stain throne:

Dior Fluid Sticks, reviewed on Colour Me Loud:

Lancôme Lip Lover, tested by Sunny:

YSL's own latest offering, YSL Baby Doll Kiss & Blush, which seems to have affinities with the Addiction Cheek Polish I tried and liked last year, as seen on Really Ree and Temptalia:

And, as the spring release sold out in record time in Hong Kong, I hope to at least be able to test the three new (and piiiiink, and hopefully jellyyyyy) shades of Jill Stuart Lip Blossom due for summer, as previewed by Rouge Deluxe:

Finally, despite having had ill luck with 3CE lip products thus far, I continue to be drawn in by their obnoxious colour palette and hilarious shade names :D The new hybrid serum Creamy Lip Colour lipsticks seem a promisingly glossy bet for my desiccated lips, appearing much more flattering on their models' lip textures than any of their previous formulas:

4. Your turn! 
Inspire me with your comments and further suggestions for topics you'd like to read about until I get out from under this cloud....


  1. :) Oh fun reading Kate! Thank you for curing my Monday blues and wretched daylight saving!! I love the blue Versace accent, but I think my epicanthic fold would EATS it up. nom nom.
    You know the 3CE colors look fabulous! I suspect my lips would not like these. I love these names. They should be names for sex acts, and vagina names. No? The Roller Coast. ME! ME! Cotton Pie if you get my drift.

    1. as far as suggestions, since I only have noms on my mind, any chance for a little tour of Asia where you are and some interesting noms?

      Perhaps street inspirations of makeup looks you've seen? I don't need great pictures! :DDD

    2. *mournfully uncaps a lipstick to your lost hour* :'(
      My tweaks on the Versace involve bringing it in more towards the centre, or converting it to a partial inner-socket flash. :)

      It is a crool crool ironie that 3CE are pretty much the only K brand who make unscented, obnoxious lip products. NONE of which work for me D: Duh, totes, on the sex acts XD JOYCE now sounds the filthiest to me, though. Sorry to all the Joyces I know.

      ....I was telling Alysia on MUA that some young minx thought I was coming on to her when I asked to snap a pic of her outfit. Which I didn't even like, BY THE WAY, it was just so representative of a particular style tribe. Have since learned 'I like your style' is a currently popular pick-up line. XD

  2. You should totally do a JS swatch post for the people that don't have access to them! I have all the lipsticks but no blog lol ;p Also, I have always wondered what your everyday brushes are, I know you've done a very extensive section of posts for that, but I was just wondering, if you were to go on a vacation and can only bring one brush of each kind, which ones would they be?

    1. I forgot to add, Canmake CL05 swatch plettee preeze!

    2. No lighting, my dear, or this wouldn't be an issue :)
      I do thank you so much for recommending the JS balm to me -- bought the limited edition peach shade and it's looovely! I also actively like the scent :D

      I will try and get brush posts up, though! Thanks for the suggestion.

  3. This was very fun, especially for someone like me that's currently changing her perspective on makeup. I'm kind of steping out "launch-only", "review-only" posts towards something more reflexive that includes new launches, reviews, but also ideas on how to wear colors, placements, and more about the blogger. My sudden change is maybe because I've been hanging around with women who don't share my passion for makeup and make me look things from a different angle.
    As for ideas on topics to read, what about the 7 things you've learned from beauty blogging tag? I really adored to read Bellyhead's reflexions on the subject, and I would really enjoy to read yours ;)

    1. I'm always interested to read what you have to say! :) I don't think I have anything to add to my last epic personal blahblah (20 Questions) because I'm not as reflective / conflicted about beauty blogging as you or belly, or as I probably should be! :(

    2. I don't think it a necessity to be reflective or conflicted about beauty blogging to do the tag. You can share with photography and lightning, or how you've changed people's life by sharing good Asian magazines that seem like text books to us mu aficionados! I'm sure you've learned a lot from Beauty Blogging and I'd really love to read ;)
      BTW, I had this strange idea of joining Barbie with the villainess of the latest 300 movie... this change of perspective is becoming something weird


      Let us all go JOYCES now. Yes.

  4. Hey Kate, gah don't I know about the one "ideal' beauty! I felt so beaten down all my life! Thanks for linking me! I can't wait to check out Dior Fluid Sticks as well as the YSL Baby Doll Kiss & Blush. Technology really is rapidly evolving! Up until recently I never believed in lip & cheek products, but the YSL one seems extraordinarily promising!

    1. Oh Sunny! Every time you say that I want to smother you in marshmallows <3 You're so lovely, inside and out.
      Linking was easy as anything -- I may or may not keep your Lancome post open in a tab at all times for ready drooling ;)

  5. Dior,Lancome and YSL!! Specially the YSL!! and I can swatch them on my own very weird skin!! :D I'm bank broke at the moment but I think I can buy two at least :)

    No playing for me with my Suqqu palettes :( all of them changed their colors on my damed skin T_T I went crazy when I bought them and I bought a lot of things and any of them suit me,because they change the colors on my skin :(

    So now I look at them as very expensive art :) because everything is so pretty in the pan and the texture are glorious!! They just look horrible on me T_T

    I will love,love, LOVE!! If you could make a series of how do the make up on different eye shapes with very little, to little eyelid space please and kudos if they are droopy,hooded and round like mine!! You know for science............

    1. Oh nooooo! :( Do they all change consistently -- I mean, is it oxidation or due to your undertones? So maybe attributable to one particular factor + correctable with primers or breaking up the palettes to pair with different colours/textures etc? I know it's probably too much work, but those suckers are pricey!

      I'm afraid I'm too wishy-washy (not Asian and prescriptive, lol) enough to do posts like that. Whenever I do makeup for someone else I always ask what they want -- I never assume any feature is 'bad' or in need of correction, y'know? I love pulling my own eyes further downwards with Korean 'puppy' placements, for example.
      She's not prescriptive/limiting either, but a great source of ideas for all kinds of effects is:

  6. keeps go to heaven, goats go to hell... your choice gave a soundtrack to enjoy whilst i read your posting!

  7. ooh never heard of those dior fluid sticks before - they look great! Also super excited for the YSL stain-lip-cheek thingys! I've a boots voucher burning a whole in my pocket! Rouge bunny rouge eyeshadows!

    I love your lookbooks and general lifestyle posts! :)

    1. ahhh how I miss Boots points/vouchers! :D I think I have enough to get one of each of these weird new things to test :D

      Thank you for the suggestions! :)

  8. I have been binge watching Get It Beauty episodes on YouTube as well, but my main objection is that despite the diversity in face/eye shapes and skin tones, EVERY Better Girl has perfectly moist, bouncy, even-toned skin. You could put mud on them and they'd look luminous. X( Also, who are the hosts, especially that sleepy, bespectacled dandy who seems so disconnected from everything?

    It's never a bad idea to blog about food. XD

    1. Haha, but to be fair I doubt it's because they screen BG's -- far more likely that they're sheet-masking every hour on the hour from when they get their show tickets to 5 seconds before the cameras roll. And your (our) idea of moist, bouncy skin is most of MUA's greasy weird mess :) But this is one K trend I'm 100% behind. Oil 'her up!

      The disconnected dandy is one Hwang Min-Young, Allure Korea editor :) I do like his bemused professorial vibe among the geeks and wisecracks of the two female hosts (Kim Yoo-Jing is the big-sister-y one, from the huge 90s kpop group SES and was a bit of a beauty guru/icon even before the show started its run; the hyper / loud / fun support host is Kim Jung-Min, an actress).

    2. SES! No wonder she seems familiar! :D

      "And your (our) idea of moist, bouncy skin is most of MUA's greasy weird mess :)"

      You think so? I think the Asian standard to achieve is to look like what you said--post sheet mask/essence (plump cells = yoof), rather than post liquid/powder highlighter. I'm really oily, so I've never bothered with highlighters, but I would commit multiple crimes to get my skin to look like it does the first 5 - 10 mins after I remove a sheet mask.

      I loved this post! It's always fun to see what you're thinking about. <3

  9. So many pretties! I love that makeup look from Dolce & Gabbana, it looks very fresh.

    I wonder if I can get away with "naive blush placement" without it looking like a bout with rosacea??

    1. I think there's a reason it's best done with oranges and yellow-tones :) That and keeping the pigment as pigment, with less blending than usual.

  10. Thank you for sharing this!
    Love that taupe and blue eye makeup look!
    I definitely want the new Dior Fluid Sticks. I am such a sucker for these hybrid stain glosses, you know?
    (But I'm going to pretend that I didn't see those Jill Stuart pretties. Gah!)

    1. Taupe&blue is mah JAM! <3
      *shields your eyes* Jill Stuart is stinky! Kittens die whenever you buy something from them! It's where they get the pink juice!

  11. Awesome post as usual! I'm currently testing those Dior Fluid Sticks!!!! I'm still a little unsure what I think of them :-) Also, I'm going to try that blush placement today. I have wider cheekbones, so I like to apply my blush higher on my face instead of on the apples of my cheeks. I wonder how this will work.

    1. You too?! I feel so left out! haha :D
      I know what you mean about weird new formulas. After half a year I'm still o.O over the Addiction cheek polishes some days.
      I usually tend to do higher-and-wider blush app too, but find this stuff surprisingly flattering, though it was hard to fight against my instincts when blending.

  12. i can't WAIT for the dior fluid sticks!!!! and the new glosses from lancome look awesome!!
    also am going to try and pin all teh blue liner looks (but i can't seem to do it) MUST PIN!!!

    1. DO EEET! I think I'm going to hit nub on my beloved By Terry pencil soon :'((((((( WHY CRUEL WORLD

  13. Love all the blue accents - I did that turquoise in the waterline thing a couple years back so maybe it's time to dig out that eyeliner. I'll have to investigate the show clips further, love those glimpses into Korean make-up you provide us with! <3 I don't have very many suggestions apart from seeing your pretty face more often :)

    1. I struggle quite a bit with turquoise makeup, despite my love for most other tones of blue. I think warmer blues (that pull green) tend to be tricky on me in general -- like the murkier teals.

      My lighting is such that even with a full-on flash you can only see a grey blur at the moment :) But thank you!

  14. I love watching different artists, especially from different countries do their different thang~ It takes you outta your comfort zone and you always learn something new to try! Thanks for the pin-porn! Gotta try that Versace coloured inner corner look! I'm excited about the upcoming lip hybrids, they all look so tempting! Love everything you post, so no suggestions here, but I'd love to see your orange lippie collection, if any, and how you'd make them work day and night. I promise I got into orange lips because of Lisa Eldridge and NARS rather than certain K-dramas which needs not be named.

    1. Indeed! I particularly like E Asian ones because I think trends move faster than anywhere else, so everyone's always upping their experimental game. And annoying as it must be to live under a greater conformist pressures than I'm used to as a UKer, it paradoxically seems to mean a more honest tone of 'we're all in this together, let's learn how to do X' makeup tutorial.

      My only legit orange lip option is Addiction Le Mépris :) I most often wear it with grey as in the original review (I guess lighter for day, stronger for evening? Not that I really go by that, lol):

      Contrasting with pastels (to offset the neon) and purple (purple/orange duh)

      A summery look, playing up the cliches of orange:

      If I could find the softer, lighter orange shade I want, I'd do lots more of this type of monochromatic thing:

    2. tissues here! Love all your looks, especially your wispy purple cat eye! I know what you mean about a pale orange find. Tried the Jill Stuart one used on the model of their spring campaign, but pulled pink on me. I think my fav so far is Rouge Dior Trafalga, the asia one (why didn't they just rename it!?). It was a pleasant surprise since I was hunting down the red-orange Trafalga and came upon this instead, and I've fallen in love.
      Thanks for the links :)

  15. My perma-red flush does seem to have reduced after trying out the Dr Wu mandelic serum you recommended, but not nearly enough for me to run out and try the YSL product. It looks great though, and I prefer cream blushes over powders because I can't get the hang of blending properly.

    I've been refreshing your blog every day so just keep the posts coming, I guess!

  16. Oh, and ever since your dohwa post, I have been watching Get It Beauty!

  17. I can't seem to stop looking at the 3CE website... the random Engrish-y shade names (Kitch Biker?!?) and clear swatches are so compelling I fear I may end up ordering something soon. (I have my eye on the Creamy Lip Colours and the maroon/burgundy gel eyeliner.)

    I second more food posts! And how about books? I love hearing other people talk about books...

  18. I actually quite love the Kbeauty way of eyelining, IMO they have some of the edgiest eyelining techniques around (Son Gain is my particular favourite). Also interesting (and agree) that they don't see monolids as an inferior lid type, unlike all the westernised AZN tutorials on how to cut fake creases, and just work with it.

    Only gripe is that thanks to edgy Kbeauty eyemakeup types, I find myself giving my hooded double eyelids (that a lot of azn friends growing up used to be like "WAHHH double eyelids, hen piao liang horrrrr") the stink eye because its impossible to do crazy elongated exotic eyeliner shapes! (also, "editorial" makeup on AZNs also seem to favour that flat-monolidded look for extra Oriental Exoticness)

    I'm just reading my comment above, and thinking WOW my problems (i think most beautyblogger problems) are really firmly in the #YA,RLYFIRSTWORLDPROBLEMS category. :P

  19. Do you have enough light to take (non-color accurate) photos? How about experimenting with looks that don't depend on color; for example, interesting eyeshadow or eyeliner shapes, changing the shape of your lips, trying to change the shape of your face with contouring - you could even take b&w photos if the color inaccuracy bothers you. I think it would be an interesting challenge, and I'd love to read it!

  20. I am really intrigued as to why you don't like the 3CE!

  21. I watched the videos and I came to work late. Hmmm. PRIORITIES.

  22. A late comer here, but thanks for posting the "Get It Beauty" which I now watch regularly (definitely having the post-Miss Korea withdrawal syndrome here..). Speaking of trend, I've also been trying out different blush placement which I found on some J-beauty mags. Hope you get out of the fog/smog soon!

  23. Thanks to your post I have now discovered the existence of the YSL kiss and blush - now to get my hands on these babies. I always wanted the Addiction equivalent - I would love to get your comparisons when u get some YSL. There are some divine blue looks I might have to try recreate!
    makeupremastered xx

  24. Oh hai! I'm late. I was talking to Dain about the 3CE lipsticks and she sent me this link:

    The lip shots on the 3CE site definitely seem a lot richer and more glamourous (and PS'd duh) but I'm still interested to see your opinion on the lipsticks. I want "Kitch Biker", whatever it means XD

    The makeup videos really show that Korean makeup has come a long way. I used to watch a lot of Korean movies from the 90's and the aesthetic was always very brown and mature in tone, and to be honest, it seemed like they were running a half a decade behind places like Japan and Hong Kong, where, in contrast, the fresh-faced look was more in vogue. That being said, I like the over-lined brown and frosty lips - maybe not something I'd like to emulate on a regular basis but it sure does trigger nostalgia.

  25. Oh if only I could justify Jill Stuart! I just love the princess-like aesthetic of it. I wouldn't even use it, I'd just have it on my dresser or counter to look at.

    I'm super curious about the new YSL lippies, too. I love the Glossy Stains to death and the new line looks right up my alley.