- Swatcharama! swatched the Eyebar way back in August (part 1, part 2)
- Wondegondigo has a wonderful series of posts (here, here, here and here)
- The Non-Blonde has beautifully lit product shots and layered swatches here
- Selphia shared some of her always exquisite photos here
Which all makes things very easy indeed for me :) So I'll be progressing straight onto my issues and gripes and general moaning. Because even with all those excellent posts as context and preparation, I was still surprised to find upon playing that:
- this really isn't a clear, jewelled palette at all. True to their liqueur names, even the brightest shades retain a powdery-white, artificial brightness: the glow of absinthe rather than emeralds, marachino red rather than ruby...
- the shimmer (or hidden shimmer) in these shades tends to be simple and monotonal, also adding to this artificial-brightness aspect, perhaps because one is meant to layer and mix the two 'magic' shades, Champagne and Soda to create complexity -- on my dry skintype and clear, pale skintone, most shades apply as quite 'flat', without tweaking. Parfait Amour is the only shade with the kind of complex multitonal shimmer I love.
- the textures are, to me, below Shiseido's usual excellent standard, and fall into several camps -- the best three, delicately shimmery and silkily blendable, Parfait Amour, Menthe and Noisette; two very soft and loosely-packed frosts Soda and Champagne; an almost foiled metallic, Curaçao; and three shades with very minimal shimmer and a drier texture: Cassis, Licorice and the almost-matte Café.
Swatches to show how much less jewelled these colours turn once they hit skin -- even pale, clear, neutral skin like mine which rarely skews or mutes down colours. All swipes made by making two passes with a sponge applicator onto bare arm.
Close-ups should illustrate what I mean by 'monotonal' shimmer in most of these, and also how the liqueurish 'flat' brightness extends even unto ye realms of macro. The edges of several shades also look quite dry and texture-enhancing on my dry skin -- the worst offenders being Café, Licorice and Cassis.
^That shot is also a good illustration of why I prefer the 'delicately' sparkling trio Parfait Amour, Menthe and Noisette of all the shades in this palette -- they sit so much more prettily on my skin than the solidity (degrees of shimmer aside) of shades like Licorice, let alone the tricksy frosts like Champagne/Soda.
Two looks now, because I still haven't made my mind up about this palette and I think about makeup by wearing it, rather than, as others might do, by looking or swatching different colours together or pondering. Both aren't terribly precise because what this palette (and its creator Dick Page) excels at is encouraging playfulness rather than perfectionism. Also drinking games. Is it happy hour yet?
First look is built around my three favourites, and the only shades I like on myself worn neat: Parfait Amour all over the lid into socket, with Champagne blended over it from the inner corner over the mobile lid/fold; Noisette with a Menthe accent to line lower lashline.
|I apologise for the atrocious lighting!|
cheeks: Shiseido PK305 Peony eyeshadow | lips: Shiseido Lacquer Rouge RS404 Disco
The glorious obnoxiousness of Disco kind of underscores wearable/surprisingly muted these eye bar 'brights' are in comparison, no?
For look 2 I headed in the opposite direction, using the textures I found trickiest. And counterintuitively loved them layered them over Caviar -- I've drivelled before about my love for this black cream base-with-a-kick from Shiseido, and it came to my rescue here, a sheer layer paradoxically cutting through the solidity and bringing out a textural variety and lightness in Cassis and Curaçao without overwhelming them with BLACKNESS.
Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Colour BK912 Caviar as base on lid and lower lashline. Cassis packed over lid, with a tiny dab of Soda in middle of lid and Licorice smudged at outer third of lashline. Café pushed into lower lashes, with Curaçao to line lower lashline.
cheeks: Shiseido PK305 Peony eyeshadow | lips: Givenchy Rose Taffetas + clear balm
Basics in both looks: Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture foundation 001, Bobbi Brown Tinted Eye Brightener Porcelain Bisque, Suqqu brow pen 01 Moss Green, L'Oreal False Lash Telescopic WP mascara, Shiseido High Beam White as setting powder.
And hey, isn't it Magazine Monday? I hear you cry. Quite right, my dears and your patience and scrolling shall be rewarded thus, with two looks using the Eye Colour Bar from Dick Page himself, from of SoEn Magazine's November issue:
You can find more of Dick Page's face charts on the Shiseido site with accompanying videos for Notorious and Sweet Dreams.
And finally, some pretty/wearable looks from the Umeda Hankyu department store booklet, courtesy of spookydeuce on makeupalley:
How about you? Have the palette or want it? Love it or loathe it or as dithery as I am? I'd love to hear about your combinations, experiments and experiences :)